Four Nights in Talbot Bay and a Wild Ride Down the Horizontal Waterfall - the Kimberley

Friday 28^th June – Monday 1^st July 2013

Four Nights in Talbot Bay and a Wild Ride Down the Horizontal Waterfall

Heading for Talbot Bay - crossing the Caesar Channel

0715 saw MrJ and me leaving Kingfisher Islands. It had rained for most of the night and was still raining when I woke. Before setting off we had collected 70litres of fresh rain water via the sailbag and bimini; the water had collected through the many folds of the huge mainsail and by using small buckets we were able to drain most out then transfer the water to our spare water bottles. With both sails set AR was away. It took us two hours to sail across the Caesar Channel through patches of rain and patches of seaweed and into Talbot Bay.

turbulent water going into Talbot Bay

Talbot Bay, within the Buccaneer Archipelago, lies about 10nm southeast of Koolan Island in Yampi Sound. The bay is uncharted; the guide books say that the waters are deep except where marked in blue on the AUS chart. Approach is shown to be clear either side of the unnamed islands whose heights are 97m and 53m. MrJ and I pull the sails down to motor through the entrance and passed the high rocky islands. The tide is rushing in causing large whirlpool around the narrow passage and headlands of the island. We continue west of Molema Island (Molema Island is joined to the mainland by the marine province of Turtle Reef, one of the largest reefs on the Kimberley coast)  then go south of another unnamed island which then took us south of Slug Island a (height of 12Im and unnamed on some charts) and into the inner part of Talbot Bay.

sunset behind Slug Island

Ahead of us I could see other boats anchored in the eastern part of the bay and a large marine platform with what looked like to me, two houseboat type structures and several docking pontoons. This was the famous Horizontal Hotel right next to the infamous Horizontal Waterfalls at the head of the bay. It is the massive tides and currents that surge through the Horizontal Waterfalls causing a white wash in overflows that attract thousands of visitors each year. Large areas of Talbot Bay behind the Horizontal Waterfalls dry at low tide and then high tide covers many jagged reefs and rock bars. The tide flows through two very narrow gorges, one on each side of the sandstone ridgelines, resulting in a tumbling torrent. Between each of the gorges there are natural reservoirs between six and eight kilometres long which fill and empty with seawater through the gorge openings. The flow of this water through these gaps just cannot keep up with the rate of the tide rising or falling. This in turn creates an amazing waterfall effect as the water rushes through and then down to the lower levels on the other side of the ridgelines. Not long after the process is reversed and it is repeated again in the opposite direction. The inner gorge is also partly fed by fresh water from Poulton Creek.

aerial view of the falls - took a couple of shots of pictures in a travel brochure  

MrJ having a chat with Adrian

Transit by dinghy through the gaps in the outer arms is possible at slack water, but not for me with our not so powerful 8h motor. I had heard terrible stories of people getting caught and stranded inside the reservoirs. During our stay in Talbot Bay MrJ and I ended up hopping a ride on the tourist fast Jetboat. What a ride!

plane & boat pontoons

MrJ and I dropped our anchor alongside a big catamaran, Penrod II and a big tourist motor boat Lady Jane. Before I had even set the anchor, Adrian from the Horizontal Hotel was over in his dinghy. I thought that we were in trouble or something, but no. Adrian had come over to say G’day giving us the heads up on the rules and regulation of the area. That’s when we book a ride through the falls for a price of course.

Once settled MrJ and I hopped in the tinnie and motored over to the hotel. The pontoons were not just there for boats they were used for the light sea planes that herded the multitude of tourist back and forth from Derby or Broome each day. We had to secure out tinnie around the back and out of the way. Adrian led the way while handing out the life vests, to the 600hp Jetboat that was to take us along with other tourists for the ride of our lives. I have never been on one of these fast boats before and have never wanted to but was sure glad of the mighty power of those engines and the experience of the driver, Adrian, at the end of the day. Most Jetboat joy rides that I have seen seem to scream all over the place, circling and bouncing of their own wake at terrific speeds.

heading into the outer falls

The Horizontal Waterfalls is definitely something that should be on your Must To-Do/See or even Bucket List, but if you come out there expecting the buzz to be about the Jetboat ride well then forget it. This white water ride is all about water tidal flow, a natural phenomenon of the fast-moving tidal flow through two of the narrow, closely aligned gorges of the McLarty Range of Talbot Bay. The direction of the flow reverses with each change of tide and as tides can reach 10 metres, a peak tide or spring tide gives rise to a significant difference in the sea level on either side of each gorge. It is believed that many billions of years ago there may have been only a small crack between the ridgelines that over the years became larger and larger due to erosion.

taking a look at the inner falls

The Jetboat charged on through the first fall (about 20mts wide) while the huge wash of water was flooding in. Once through the first fall there was a natural formed canyon with calm on water both sides and patch of mangroves to the right. The second fall (about 12mts wide) was a different kettle of fish with its much narrower gap and wild flowing water. The power of the water flowing through was immense, I would akin the flow to a canal lock or worse.

sitting backwards

 The Jetboat was not able to transit through but Adrian backed the Jetboat down into the top of the flooding crazy water flow, dipping its stern deep into the water flow, holding the Jetboat steady with its powerful engines; the pull was tremendous. Then back up the fall, revving those engines to the max against the flow and onward out through the first fall. I’m so glad this boat didn’t have engine failure but I was also glad to have experienced this incredible tidal power firsthand.

whitewater rush

The only access to Talbot Bay and the Horizontal Waterfalls is either by boat, helicopter or floatplane such as Cessna Caravan KLP. The floatplanes and helicopters (run but the same company as the hotel) fly up from Derby and Broome, landing on the bay just outside the Horizontal Waterfalls while the hotel has a helipad on one of the pontoons. In peak times there are other fixed wing planes that fly by and some of the big tourists boats, like Great Escape have their own chopper that all boats circle over the falls during the peak of the tidal run. It is certainly one busy place out in the wilderness.

the pilot and Keesha

After our little joy-ride MrJ and I stayed around at the hotel to meet some more of the great staff/crew.  Keesha, the hostess with the mostess, gave me a couple of bags of apples to take home which I stewed up for our breakfast meals. MrJ was able to get an order for two slabs of beer to be brought in the next day on one of the floatplanes. Adrian had also invited us back for drinks that evening but when we saw how many paying passenger were still at the hotel we thought best to stay home.

helping hands when the plane are moving

Saturday 29^th June

Saturday morning brought in some warm sunshine, enough to get me up on deck exercising before breakfast. I then watched three floatplanes fly over and land. More planes were in and out throughout the day and with each one landing or taking off the surrounding calm water would be churned up sending wash across to the anchored boats which would then rock our socks off. Just part of what happens!

Horizontal Hotel

After breakfast and clean Ken off Penrod II popped in to say hello and then we got a call on the VHF radio from Keesha; our beer had landed. MrJ and I jumped in the tinnie to go pick up out delivery and also had time to chat with Keecha and the other crew. Many of the tourist were moving in and out of the planes and Jetboats; everyone was kept moving to a tight scheduler. We made our apologies for turning up the night before and were told it would not have matter with them or their guests; the invite was put to MrJ and I again and this time we accepted.

heading into Cyclone Bay

Cyclone Bay

rock formations in Cyclone Creek

MrJ and I decides to do some exploring in out tinnie so drooping the supplies off first we then took off up towards what everyone calls the Cyclone Bay. East of the Horizontal Waterfalls is a bay with cyclone moorings that were used by pearl producers in the pearling seasons. The creek beyond the moorings is scenic and can be navigated by dinghy but might be tricky at a spring low tide. I was very impressed with the dramatic, vertiginous cliffs of Cyclone Creek.

The rock formations were amazing, as if the earth had been pushed up by a huge explosion and it probably had many thousands or millions of years ago.

Ella

That evening MrJ motored over to the hotel, tying our tinnie up to the back of one of the walkways. Keesha greeted us with a lovely warm cheerio and told us that we would be able to stay for dinner as well; she had grabbed a couple of pieces of extra fish out just for us. How wonderful. MrJ were able to meet more of the great crew/staff as we as meet quite a number of very friendly paying guests. There was only one narky lady, a big snob that queried why we were allowed there. Simple explanation – we were asked! I did notice that this particular lady was knocking back a hell of a lot of booze and not many people were engaging in conversation with her. What comes around.............! Some of the guests were, as MrJ puts it, not short of a quid, but were extremely friendly and very interested in what we were doing.

Sunday 30^th June

our mates the Gummy Sharks, which are
sometimes called Lemon Sharks because of their colour

I couldn't raise ABC radio, Macca All Over for MrJ but we still had our cooked Sunday breakfast. With no papers to read it was a morning of catch up on the computer. It was a rest day all round with the predicted strong wind that had come in we were not going anywhere. The afternoon spent relaxing in the cockpit admiring the view and we had our regular afternoon visitor, the local gummy sharks looking for a free hand out of bread. These gummy sharks have become pet like because of the number of people that they get to interact with but are very protect by the staff at the Horizontal Hotel.

Monday 1^st August

while waiitng for the plane to dock

I began my day with my yoga in the fresh morning air then while having breakfast I tried to catch up with my writing. I am getting so far behind. Oh well! No time to rest today; MrJ and I were over to the hotel to collect some fresh water in our containers. The hotel does not have a lot of water to give out; they have to make all their own water with a couple of large desalinators. I just think we were lucky. This was the staff’s last day before being flown out for a three day leave. Keesha said she would give us a call a bit late so that we could come over to say good bye. Adrian and his boys were busy getting this away while the last of the tourists were still getting their tour rides. Adrian is the complex manager, his brother in Broome owns the company and their father owns the float plane company; a big family concern.

morning light caught on Slug Island

When MrJ and I went across to the hotel that afternoon Keesha had several packs of fresh fruit, vegies and bread boxed up for us. All this stuff would have been thrown out, thrown overboard to the fish before the staff’s departure. Looks like the Gummy’s miss out this time! We waved good bye as the planes took off dipping low past AR. Only one person was left on the floating complex; a young fella flown in from Broome to care take and do a few maintenance jobs around the pontoons. During the late afternoon this caretaker popped over to say G’day and have a bit of a chit-chat. He left us before dark came in and then MrJ and I were all alone. The other boats had left either that morning or the day before. Early the next morning we left too.

sunset over Talbot Bay

Tide Rips and Shallow Passage - Kingfisher Island, Collier Bay Kimberley

storm over Doubtful Bay

Thursday 27^th June 2013

Tide Rips and Shallow Passage - Kingfisher Island, Collier Bay Kimberley

Kingfisher Islands

I don’t get much sleep in these deep anchorages, always worried about how high the water will really get at high tide and dragging anchor. We had been in 18mt of water at HWS and 8mts at LWS with 65mts of chain out. To my distressed mind this is not enough.
I had woken through the early morning hours to close the hatches and bring in the saloon cushions and then could not get back to sleep. I lay in bed kept awake by the sound of the rain and the slapping waves on the hull. MrJ and I wear out of bed just as the day was breaking a dull grey light.

it rained a bit

speedy at the winch action

It seemed to take forever to winch the anchor up in the faint light of the early morning, all clouded in with light rain fall and a good breeze blowing. MrJ and I were dressed in our yellow rain coats. MrJ was hand winching the anchor while I was at the helm. At some stage MrJ needed me to move AR further back to take the pressure off the tight chain. I looked behind and all I could see were the dark patches of an underwater rocky reef looming close. Thank goodness AR was still far enough away and we did get the anchor up before getting any closer but I still don’t like deep anchorages.

where whirlpools and sky meet

We were leaving Doubtful Bay on such a bleak day to once again pass between the high headland and Steep Island to head straight out to sea. We were heading for Kingfisher Island. The north track would be 52n/m, the south track would be 47n/m; we chose the direct track (26n/m) straight through the middle of a very shallow patch of water that nearly dried at LWS between Kingfisher and Melomy Islands. The passage between these two islands was easy to navigate but was subject to severe tide rips.

rips and white-out rain squall as we pass over the shallows between the islands

It had rained on and off all the way with the wind blowing in gusts of 20knts and I was cold. The weather man had said that there was a chance of possible thunderstorms. If the continual rain was his idea of thunderstorm then we were getting that.
Taking the direct route to Kingfisher Island we were able to pass by fairly closely the SE corner of Montgomery Reef at low water. Montgomery Reef (15’57S – 124’12E) is a large relatively flat extensive area of sand, rock and coral that protects Collier Bay from the ocean swells. Montgomery Islands which are low and sandy lie in the centre of the reef and High Cliffy Islands (which are very low) are separated from the eastern side of the reef by a deep channel about three cables wide. The incoming tide sets up a strong (4 to 6kn on springs) southerly current on the eastern side of the reef and a similar strength easterly current along the southern side of the reef. The best time to visit the reef to witness the water cascading off the crest  during the period two hours before and after low water and the most spectacular area of waterfalls occurs in the deep, narrow gutter on the southeast corner of the reef.

can you see the sea water pouring off Montgomery Reef as the tide goes out?

The winds and tides were unsuitable to allow us time to access the reef this day but we did get to see some of the water streaming down the sides of the huge drying out reef from a little distance off as AR sailed past Montgomery’s Reef’s southern side.

can't see a bloody thing

It was raining again when we entered in the little bay inside Kingfisher Island; it was nearly a complete white-out and still raining as we anchored in another deep anchorage (16’07.431S – 124’05.806E). Enough was enough! A plus for us though, we did get to collect some rain water.

AR was anchored in 14mts of water on a ¾ HWS. Sometime during our stay at Kingfisher Island AR had swung at high tide across a 29mt hole before swinging back the other way on the tide change. This sort of thing was always unnerving to me. Thank goodness I trust our Rocna anchor.

sorta a sunset

Anchoring in Strong Winds – Inside Raft Point, the Kimberley

Steep Island, the Bluff and Raft Point from the seaward side

Wednesday 26^th June 2013

Anchoring in Strong Winds – Inside Raft Point, the Kimberley

Doubtful Bay

MrJ and I were up and away at 0620 after the fun and games with the anchor winch. The winch motor had given up the ghost completely by this time and we were coming to grips with the manual winching. MrJ winched up the anchor while I drive. We were heading further south.

The tour boat Great Escape had come into the inlet during the night, I gave them a call on the VHF radio as we were leaving. I say G’day, thank them for their assistance over at the King George River entrance many weeks prior and wish them fair travels. Doesn't hurt to be nice to the tour boats and there were a lot of them!

looking out Sampson's Inlet

Outside Sampson’s Inlet the seas were very swelly; we had a 1mt W swell, tide was flooding S, ENE winds and we were sailing south. I could feel that a headache was trying to happen! Every now and again I still suffered from a slight form of sea-sickness and the headache was always the first sign. I just needed to keep outside in the fresh breeze till the swell backed off.
Four hours out we were approaching the outside anchorage at Langgi, a bay with interesting rock formations that give the impression of a gathering of people. I t was a significant Aboriginal site. One guide book says that they have only every managed to get into Langgi once due to unfavourable conditions but had been past many times; they gave good information. The other guide book showed a day anchorage outside with little information. MrJ edges forward in a rolly sea with waves crashing on the rocks at both sides of the bay entrance. I was not too happy!

looking at Langgi on the left --------------------------------------what the guide book shows as rock formations on the right

small islands of thick sea weed all the way

We did not stay, we did not anchor to go ashore, the winds and the sea condition were not favourable for a comfortable landing. We also did not get to go into the gutter at the Montgomery Reef which was south west of Langgi. Boats go into the reef inlets at low spring tides to observe the water rushing out of the lagoons in the reef and down over the sides of the reef.

no fish either

From Langgi AR followed the coast down till we came to a large bay, Doubtful Bay (aptly named since it was an uncharted area) which had scattered large island at the entrance. These island rise high from very deep waters. MrJ steered AR into the bay between Steep Island and a most impressive headland, The Bluff on Raft Point. The Bluff, Raft Point and Steep Island are very high and imposing compared with the surrounding country, we could see them from many miles out to sea.

the Bluff and Raft Point

Raft Point: This area was an Aboriginal meeting and ceremonial ground. It was named because this was where Aborigines rafted (rafts made from the wood of the mangrove trees) from to Montgomery Reef. Dugong were hunted, caught and then floated back to the meeting grounds. Aboriginal art may be found on the west side of the cliffs.

we anchored the other side of this big bluff

MrJ and I didn’t anchor at Raft Point (swell and wind in the wrong direction) but instead we chose the anchorage just south of the headland on the bay side, 16’05.850S – 124’28.838E. With all the mucking about with the anchor winch we ended up with AR bum sticking out a bit; we had moved back before the anchor had set. Thank goodness we had our anchor secure in the mud.
This anchorage is protected from the NE winds which stayed with us all night and then changed to the east just before dawn making the anchorage very sloppy. And it was raining.................!!!

sunset behind the bluff

A Close Call - Two Nights at Samson’s Inlet, the Kimberley

Monday24th June 2013

A Close Call - Two Nights at Samson’s Inlet, the Kimberley

sunrise in Camden Harbour

0830 MrJ and I leave Sheep Island to catch the last bit of the outgoing tide to get AR out of Camden Harbour timing the change of tide to get us through Brecknock Harbour and then into Sampson’s Inlet a short 15n/m around the corner. Once again we had done the calculation right we were into the inlet and anchored by lunchtime.

Our passage took us out of Camden Harbour sailing in a westerly direction through Brecknock Harbour on a course that would pass by Slade Island and bring us close to the mouth of Kuri Bay which was the main Kimberley base for Pasparley Pearling Company. Funny, we had not seen or had not come across any of the pearling bead lines in Brecknock Harbour that were marked on the charts. We had also notice this, the lack of pearl lines, in some other places. The pearling industry must be on the down turn.

AR had not been much more than an hour into the passage when we saw a large motor boat in the distance heading towards us. It had stopped not too far ahead, lowered a small runabout and which was heading our way. Then there was the familiar squawk of the VHF radio; someone was calling us. It was the WV Dept of Fisheries. There were two very friendly people, a female and a male, who gave MrJ and I a friendly chat about the rules etc (much stricter in WA then on the eastern coast), asked to see our fishing licences (MrJ presented his) and then we just chatted about boating life in general and my herb garden. I gave the female officer some bits and pieces of the fresh herbs. My herb garden gets them every time! ;o)

Another hour went by; now we were passing Kuri Bay, officially named Kuri Bay in 1962, an abbreviation of the Japanese pearling industry executive T. Kuribayashi. The fishery people told us that the whole pearling operation in Kuri Bay had been shut down. Looking from outside the bay as we passed, the infrastructure was still all there; a multitude of buildings, sheds and their own slipway. The place was huge!

Kuri Bay as it is today, a ghost village - everything has been left just as it was

entering Sampson's Inlet

MrJ and I arrive at the entrance of Sampson’s Inlet still riding the in-going tide through the deep narrow entrance and into the inlet. We keep to the middle as AR passes through, the entrance is marked with a rocky reef off both points, the north point reef has been said to dry at LW. The inlet runs in about 3.5n/m with a sharp right elbow turn about halfway along. The bottom seems to be fairly flat; we did not come across any intrusive sand bars. There were several narrow gorges leading off on either side of the inlet. Sampson’s Inlet was a large gorge in its self, land-locked and steep-to; the guides say that it was a good cyclone anchorage with little effect from the currents, that there were cyclone mooring towards the bottom end and crocodiles frequent the inlet. Around the corner we could see what looked like one large and one small pontoon plus two small moorings. These were what were left behind by the pearly industry, to be used again when their season picks up.

MrJ and I anchored in Sampson’s Inlet (15’30.039S – 124’29.567E) away from the mooring in a good sandy mud bottom with 13.7mt of water at HW (8mt tidal difference). We had our lunch and then lowered the tinnie to go exploring. It was close to the top of the tide as we took the tinnie up Sampson’s Inlet towards the head of the inlet; motoring further up through a narrowing inlet past a cliff face with a large rock ledge on the left and still further up through the narrowing watercourse then around a bend to the tidal rocky creek bed.

the creek dries out

Later, when reading the Kimberley Guide I discover that we had motored right over the top of the tidal rock bar at the HWS and on further to where the rocky creek bed was exposed. MrJ and I clambered out of the tinnie and across the slippery unstable rocks carrying our water containers with all thoughts on getting some fresh water. We knew that we had to be as quick as possible; no mucking around is what MrJ would always say, as the tide would be going out soon. MrJ had put some fresh water in two containers when he looked to see if I was OK and happened to notice that the tinnie behind me was high and dry. The tide was going out faster than we had realized. We had to get out of there fast!

It must have been a scene right out of an old comic film to see MrJ and I trying to scurry back across the slippery rocks as quick as we were capable of carrying all the containers; it was not comic to me. I was scared! I had visions going through my head of us being stuck here, high and dry for hours or even days till the next big tide came in and then there was the potential croc threat. Holy cow............!!!

happy to be outta that creek

MrJ and I threw the containers into the tinnie and grabbed the sides of the tinnie to either drag, lift, push, shove and/or all of the above, taking all our strength to get the tinnie of the large rock and back into some shallow water again. We had to use the oars to paddle some of the way across the every shallowing rocky bottom waterway before MrJ could fire up the outboard. The tinnie hit the rocky bottom in a couple of places as we negotiated the waterway and at one spot right near the bend we had to use the oars again. I think this is where the first rock bar was. And then we were free, out in the deeper water and motoring back up the inlet and back to the safety of AR. What a close call! (but I didn't get any photos)

Tuesday 25^th June 2013

This was washing day! MrJ and I had not done a proper wash since the 10^th June at McGowan’s Camp anchorage. I had washed some things, including the bedding, in seawater and done a quick freshwater rinse when we have been able to get the fresh water somewhere in between there and Sampson’s Inlet or we wash our smalls in the hand basin at night after our tubs but that was about it.
MrJ dragged our little washing plastic twin-tub machine onto the aft deck while I gather up all our washing – clothes, bedding, towels, t-towels and a couple of toweling floor mats. MrJ had to lift the 20gal (USA) blue water containers out of the forward shed (locker); had something to do with not getting very much fresh water the day before. :o(

the boat makes a great clothes line too

We used 100litres of fresh water to do our washing. I pegged everything on the lines I had rigged up out forward over the tramps and then I left them to dry in the gentle breeze and warn sunshine. Outside Sampson’s Inlet the wind was reported to have been fairly strong, that’s why we came in here for two nights. I watched the gentle breeze playing with the bed sheets. I could now understand how the inlet would make a good cyclone anchorage.

rewarded with a brilliant sunset