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sailing into Port Davey at sunrise |
Sunday 2nd Feb 2014:
Port Davey
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Big Caroline & East Pyramids: big rocks and little rocks & islands on the S of the entrance to Port Davey |
Port Davey is really
divided into four sections; Outer Port Davey, Bathurst Channel, Bathurst
Harbour and the Melaleuca River that opens into the Melaleuca Lagoon. First
sighted by Abel Tasman in 1642 as he went past and visited by many explorers
and ships over the centuries, then in 1798, Matthew Flinders with his friend
George Bass circumnavigated Tasmania in the tiny Norfolk to prove that it was an island, charting only the
outside of Port Davey on their way round.
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passing the Breaksea Islands to get into the Bathurst Channel |
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boats anchored in Bramble cover under Mt Misery |
“The accuracy with
which the coastline generally is laid down by Flinders is very remarkable,
considering the necessarily rough-and-ready nature of the survey mode by the
Norfolk, which in the end had to hasten back to Sydney, owing to provisions
running out, and the scantiness of his other sources. The most notable
omissions are Macquarie Harbour and Port Davey, on the West Coast. Flinders
noted the range of hills which runs down the eastern side of Macquarie Harbour
(De Witt Range) and marks them as "high, woody hills, seen imperfectly through
the haze," but he did not suspect the existence of the almost land locked
inlet at their feet. He kept well off the coast at Port Davey, and simply notes
on the chart,
opening like a large river."
– Excerpts taken from TROVE Digitised Newspapers and more
http://trove.nla.gov.au/newspaper
What an awesome quote! The
same could be said for the mountainous region within Port Davey - Dismal,
barren, horrific – exactly what you want out of a cruising destination, right?
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Mt Misery on a grey day |
Port Davey, Bathurst
Channel and Bathurst Harbour are also dramatically beautiful, virtually
untouched by man, having a fascinating indigenous and European history and they
do provide a safe and indeed tranquil harbour from the ferocious Southern Ocean
at its doorstep.
Port Davey is the
last of the wilderness areas as far as cruising goes in Tasmanian water that
there are no roads leading in only walking tracks and a small landing strip
only suitable for light aircraft near the Ranger’s Stations and Kings Landing
in the Melaleuca Lagoon. Port Davey is by no means the wild and lonely place it
used to be in the King Family days (A book worth reading -
King of the
Wilderness : The Life of Deny King by Christobel Mattingley); it has many more visitors arriving
by sea, air and on foot. During our short stay were saw a couple of light
planes, six other yachts (including on other catamaran), a couple of light
motorboats from the Melaleuca Lagoon area and a hiker.
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Mt Rugby |
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raining in Clytie Cove |
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rainbow reflection - Clytie Cove looking towards Mt Parry and Mt Mackenzie |
The whole area has been
declared a Marine Reserve which comes with a lot of regulations and
restriction. Restriction like: where you can or cannot go in a powered dinghy,
no discharge of any kind from any boat in the Bathurst Channel, no go zones for
walking, diving, fishing and anchoring, and when going on hikes ashore the washing
of footwear before landing and after returning to the dinghy due to the spread
of the dreaded root rot (phytophthora) having been brought in on peoples shoes
and camping gear. When doing any of the hikes ashore, especially to any of the
high peaks, people are asked to tread lightly and use the existing wombat
furrow tracks. There is very little top-soil over the underlying rock on the
sides of the hills and slopes; it is quite easy in such a high rainfall area
for an informal track to become a scar and to spoil the area. Biologists
continue to discover new surprises in the dark brown water of the Port Davey
waterway. This includes rare forms of coral and other marine life usually found
in much deeper places in the Southern Ocean.
The underwater
landscape is even more surprising. In Bathurst Harbour and Bathurst Channel a
very unusual marine environment has been created by a deep layer of dark red/brown,
tannin-rich freshwater, which overlies tidal saltwater. The tannins restrict
sunlight penetration to the top few metres, limiting the growth of marine
plants. In their place live colourful and delicate marine invertebrates. In the
clearer marine waters of Port Davey – away from the influence of the freshwater
tannins – a more typical Tasmanian underwater world exists. Diverse kelp
forests and abundant fish thrive beneath the surging Southern Ocean waves.
The only people we
spoke to in person were a fella from Switzerland who was travelling the Port
Davey to Southern Ocean Overland Track, when we went for our own hike up one of
the smaller ridges, and a French couple on a yellow sloop when we moved AR into
Bramble Cove where we did walks on the beach.
MrJ and I had only
scratched the surface of exploring this spectacular, special place.
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Clytie Cove with the Pasco Range behind |
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