Thursday 15th November 2010
Darwin Waterfront
Precinct
MrJ and I decided to catch the local bus into town;
the bus services in Darwin run to a good schedule and the timetables are easy
to follow. We thought that we would do a walk down to the waterfront and out to
the old wharf, Stokes Hill Wharf where during the Vietnam days in the 60’s HMAS
Attack, the ship that MrJ while stationed on would come alongside. The day was
developing into a scorcher that neither of us where prepared for as we set off
down the road. To our surprise MrJ and I discovered a whole new Waterfront
Precinct with parklands, a swimming lagoon, a wave pool, a huge seawall and several tall apartment buildings
with cafes and shops on their ground floors.
The
Darwin Waterfront has a significant and varied history for the many
different cultures that have helped to shape it. The area was home of the Larrakia people, who for centuries
traded with the Macassans, the site of early
Malay/Chinese settlements and was the site of the original landing of European
settlers who waded ashore and camped in the ‘gully’ by Fort Hill. The area was
the site of the first bomb to land on Australia during World War II and the site
of the first public gardens. The railway came from Frances Creek to the jetty with
a station near Stokes Hill and where Travelers’ Walk marks an old path used to
walk from the early camp to the escarpment.
Today the Darwin
Waterfront Precinct is a place to unwind, have fun and enjoy your surroundings.
Parks, gardens and picnic areas featuring tropical landscaping are
there for
the enjoyment of the public. Built to complement the
parklands are two
swimming lagoons the Wave Lagoon and the Recreation Lagoon.

The Recreation Lagoon has a sea wall designed to protect the entire site
from a 1:100 storm surge captures a permanent body of water providing for
swimming and other water-based activities. Water is pumped in from the sea and
the water quality is maintained through mechanical flushing and mixing. Mesh
screens are in place to prevent marine stingers entering the first part of the
lagoon and there is a stinger net providing more protection on the beach side. Lifeguards
are supposed to regularly drag and monitor the water and night spotting for
marine stingers is carried out weekly. The Darwin Waterfront Corporation takes
all reasonable steps to ensure the lagoon is free of marine stingers but there
is no 100% guarantee. A natural eco system exists including fish, algae, and
Cassiopeia jellyfish. All play an important role maintaining a healthy
environment. Some large fish live in the outer lagoon, at times they have brushed up
against swimmers. These fish eat the jellyfish and are needed them to
keep the numbers down. If swimming with fish isn’t your thing you to swim on
the beach side of the stinger net, they are kept out of this area. The
Recreation Lagoon is free to use and lifeguards patrol the water seven days a
week.
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The
Wave Lagoon is a safe stinger and crocodile-free wave and
swimming lagoon where fees are charged and covers an area of 4,000 square metres. Included is
a shallow still water area for toddlers. The water is chlorinated salt and the
lagoon has a concrete bottom. The wave lagoon is capable of a range of
different waves up to 1.7 metres in height providing a range of experiences for
all users. Waves run on a cycle with a ten minute break in between.
Like all outdoor activities
the Wave and Recreation Lagoons are affected by weather. From October to May
wet season storms can pose a danger. Both lagoons will be evacuated if
lightning is close by. If thunder is heard within 30 seconds or less after a
lightning flash, lifeguards will evacuate both lagoons.
Public art has been integrated amongst the buildings, amenities and public space, celebrating the diverse cultural influences of the area.
Jipiyontong (Jabiru) 2008 a piece done in cast aluminium and italian
glass tiles by artist Janice Murray who is from Milikapiti. The work depicts
the Jabiru, a bird found on the Tiwi Islands. The designs in the work are drawn
from traditional body designs (Jilmara), used during Pukamani (funeral)
ceremony. Tiwi birds are a common subject for the artist and reflect the
totemic significance and abundance of birdlife on the islands. Janice’s
traditional county on the island is Tinganu, an area to the far East of the
community.
Gapu Guya 2008 (Gapu = water, Guya = fish) is a ceramic print on glass by
artist Wukun Wanambi (b. 1962) is a part of the
Marrakulu Clan, who are responsible for saltwater imagery that has not been
painted intensively since his father’s death in 1981. Wanambi learnt the sacred
designs of his father from elders in 1997.
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low tide at Fort Hill Wharf |
MrJ and I spent a little time exploring the
parks and swimming lagoons before walking along the seawall between the
contained water and the open harbour to what is known as the Fort Hill Wharf where HMAS Sydney and
Customs Ship Ocean Protector were alongside. The nice security guard at the
gate was not going to let us in. From here, in the now broiling sun’s heat we
return along the seawall to continue along the walkway out to Stokes Wharf and
past the old Pump House which has
been renovated as a restaurant overlooking the sea.
In 1923 the Royal Australian Navy moved from
coal to fuel oil and the following year construction began on four oil storage
tanks in Port Darwin as a part of building a new oil refueling station. Darwin
became an important site within the national program of naval defence. A critical
part of the refueling station was the Darwin Pump House which was completed in
1928. This building housed two main oil pumps manufactured by Kelly & Lewis
in Melbourne and two G&J Weir feed pumps built in Cathcart, Glasgow. These
were powered first by steam, and then later by electricity. Oil was pumped out
of tankers, stored in the nearby tanks and pumped out again when vessels
required refueling. In 1932 five more tanks were built with a further two
completed by December 1941. On 19 February 1942, only days after Singapore
surrendered to the invading Japanese army, the storage tanks were bombed in the
first aerial bombing raid on Darwin Harbour. Successive bombing raids destroyed more tanks until
by June 1943 only the No. 8 tank remained intact. The Pump House itself
suffered only minor damage and the technology survived well into the post-war
period. The Pump House and the remains of the storage tanks set into Stokes
Hill are key elements in an understanding of the history of the Port.
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Stokes Hill Wharf |
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most of the cafes on the wharf open for sunset and evening times |
Stokes
Hill Wharf is primarily a historical tourist precinct with a
number of dining facilities on the wharf itself. The history of the Wharf dates
back to the early 1800s with the arrival of European settlers. On 19th February
1942, the Japanese bombed Darwin, with the Wharf bearing the full force of the
invasion. Many ships and amphibious planes were sunk and many people lost their
lives. The Wharf Precinct continues to be one of Darwin’s most popular venues
among tourists and locals alike, managed by the Darwin Port Corporation and strategically located within the Darwin
Waterfront precinct. The wharf remains a working wharf for smaller marine
industry users and large cruising yachts. Harbour cruise vessels are moored at the
wharf with facilities provided to embark and disembark passengers. A fishing
area is popular with locals and visitors and this is where MrJ and I came
across a young man camped with blow-up mattress, camp stove, and backpack with
his fishing lines already in the water.
The wharf area was the stage on
which many crucial scenes of World War II were played out. Even
before Japan joined the War the small sleepy town of Darwin, that in 1938 had
about 3000 residents took on a new character as the military buildup of
infrastructure and personnel began. On 12 December 1941, a week after the
bombing of Pearl Harbor, Cabinet issued the order for the civilian evacuation
of Darwin. Over the next few weeks about 750 women and children were evacuated
south on the Zealandia, Koolama, Koolinda, Montoro and the American ship,
General Grant. The decision to evacuate civilians was timely. At two minutes to
ten on the morning of 19 February 1942, Japanese aircraft from the same attack
group that had bombed Pearl Harbor, struck at Darwin sinking eight of the 47
ships anchored there. At the wharf, the Neptuna was in the process of unloading
her cargo: 200 depth charges with a very large quantity of anti aircraft shells
for the Navy and Army. A bomb struck the angle corner of the wharf, blowing a
locomotive and trucks into the sea. The Neptuna exploded and more than 50 of
the ship’s company were killed along with 22 civilian wharfies, many from
longstanding Darwin families. In the chaos and confusion, some men showed
enormous courage and presence of mind. They rowed small boats out through the
burning oil to rescue injured sailors.
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Darwin harbour on a New Moon low tide - 7mts difference between low and high tides |
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looking down on the parkland and lagoon from the top walkway |
It was a very hot day and MrJ and I were
still wandering around in it. We wandered back to the parkland where we found
the new walkway back to the city. A dedicated walkway has been developed
linking the Darwin Waterfront Precinct to the Darwin CBD via a pedestrian
bridge from the end of Smith Street over Kitchener Drive and joining with a
glass-sided lift. . Much shorter than the roadway and easier on the old body!