“It
is good to have an end to journey toward; but it is the journey that matters,
in the end.” - Ernest Hemingway
July 2014
Two
Months Later:
Unsurprisingly,
I have started to mourn the end of the journey.
As
I write this I am sitting on my beautiful boat ALANA ROSE, in the marina and
not at sea anymore. My beautiful boat is my home, a home that has taken me many
places that I have never been before. I have done so many things that only a
few have done. I have battled the elements, I have gone without comforts, I
have wrestled my fears and I have survived. Not a day goes by that I don’t have
a moment to remember.
 |
| marina life on a good morning |
I look
outside to see the boat and marina lights doing a little dance on the still
waters that surround me. I begin to remember the fascinating places that I have
seen and the wonderful people that I have met along the way. I sit here trying
to make sense of my feelings.
I
am so pleased to be back, to see old friends and familiar things. Not to be
always on the move! But that old lure of freedom and travel tugs hard.
It’s
hard to believe that two years has passed since MrJ and I set sail on ALANA
ROSE to circumnavigate this great big land of ours, Australia. The memories are
so vivid, as if they are happening all over
again...............................
This
time two years ago MrJ and I were making a mad dash across Whitsunday Passage to
Airlie Beach in strong winds with wind against tide and a wild sea running. It was
a great ride, one that you don’t stay below for long; a ride that was very exhilarating
for mind body and spirit. Why? You may ask; because water had been spilt on my
computer and MrJ just had to get me a new one. Good reason!
 |
| Crossing Whitsunday Passage in a heavy sea |
I
think about some of my most challenging times:
Making
a runner down the Ningaloo Reef with huge swells and nasty seas was a
challenge. Crossing Bass Straight, when coming back to the mainland, the
weather changed dramatically and we chose to keep going, was a recent challenge
(trying to pick the right weather windows are always a challenge).
 |
| Running down the Ningaloo Reef with sea birds to guide us |
 |
| Crossing Bass Strait - the end of a bad passage |
I
also have a hurdle with anchoring; setting and/or dragging anchor in exotic
places.
Times
that the anchor has given me grief was when anchoring in a white-out storm in
Bathurst Bay part of Princess Charlottes Bay half way up Cape York, getting
fouled on a mooring line during a bad storm at Rottnest Island off southern
Western Australia and having to get a diver out to free us, keeping long anchor
watches in the Kimberley due to big tides and fast flow, trying to set an
anchor in the weedy or hard sandy bottom off south and south western parts of
Australia and waiting for it to pop out. I think one of the most unsettling times
was the sickening feeling I had as John and I tried to move as quickly as two
older yachties could, off a high jetty down into our small dinghy, after seeing
our beloved ALANA ROSE taking off by herself across Strahan Harbour. I don’t
think I ever recovered from that one!
 |
| rounding Pipon Islets' light, Cape Melville, in a near white-out |
 |
| diver retrieving our anchor in the anchorage at Rottnest Island |
 |
| the Kimberley - yep, the tides are that big! |
 |
| the southern coast of Western Australia |
 |
| making a hasty excite back to the boat in Strahan |
There
are so many wonderful places, people and things to think about, too numerous to
mention them all. I have a list longer than the world is round!
 |
sunset at Gove
 |
| running the Rip - the Gugari Rip, Wessel Islands Northern Territory |
|
I often
get asked – Which are my favourite locations and why and this is what I have
said:
There
are so many places I favour for all different reasons. Here is my version of a
short list and I’m telling you, I have left out so many wonderful places.
Top
of my list would have to be the Kimberley, for its wilderness, its isolation,
its majestic rivers, just to name a few: the Berkley and the King George of the
Eastern Kimberley, that are mind blowing spectacular with 100mtetre sheer rock
face high-sided gorges, magnificent amphitheatres with high vertically
cascading waterfalls. In the west Kimberley there is the mighty Prince Regent
River in the south east corner of the scenic St George Basin. The wild ride through
the whirlpools, rocks and islands before entering the “Basin” is exciting.
Others to mention are the Mitchell, the Hunter, the Sale and the Drysdale Rivers
which all need careful navigation due to the high tidal differences in the
Kimberley. And of course there is Talbot Bay with the infamous Horizontal
Waterfalls and Yampi Sound with Silvergull, Crocodile and Coppermine Creeks
which are full of picturesque scenery unique rock formations and interesting Kimberley
characters.
 |
| stopping for fuel and water at McGowan's Beach Camp - the Napier Broome Bay |
 |
| swam in large waterhole, high enough above the high tide mark not to have friendly crocs |
 |
| anchored of great sandy island with many big Boab trees |
 |
| spat out of the Horizontal Waterfalls - Talbot Bay |
 |
| encountered huge rock formation every where in the Kimberley |
I
love the Kimberley not only for its rivers but also for its islands,
archipelagos, reef systems, waterway and rock formation that are like nothing I
have ever seen anywhere else in the world. The Kimberley is a place that has
been almost untouched since the beginning of time with thousands of years of
culture right there in front of you. Aboriginal Rock Painting Sites are
prevalent throughout the Kimberley and some of the most diverse are to be found
within walking distance of the coast and on many islands. What few people you
do meet, they are extremely friendly people living simple lives and just
getting on with things.
 |
| boating up the Berkley River |
 |
| top of the world - anchored in the King George River |
 |
| Bradshaw Paintings - Aboriginal Rock Paintings on Jar Island |
 |
| the magnificent waters of the St Georges Basin |
 |
| motoring up the Prince Regent River |
 |
| and the odd Croc popped its head up to say G'day |
Australia’s
great southern state of Tasmania would fall in a short second. Tasmania has it
all (except for the tropical heat) as far as cruising in the right season. You
have the isolation and the spectacular beauty of the wilderness areas on Tasmania’s
west coast, like the snaking Gordon
River which is part of the Franklin–Gordon Wild Rivers National Park; wild by
name, wild by nature, with dramatic mountain peaks, spectacular gorges, running
through the heart of the Tasmanian wilderness. The Gordon River extends to the
south of historic Macquarie Harbour.
 |
the passage through Hell's Gate, Macquarie Harbour
 |
| alongside in the Gordon River |
 |
| following in the fog - heading into the Gordon River |
|
Port Davey, Bathurst Channel and Bathurst
Harbour are also dramatically beautiful, virtually untouched by man and they do
provide a safe and indeed tranquil harbour from the ferocious Southern Ocean at
its doorstep. Port Davey and Bathurst Harbour where time has stood still and
you could be forgiven for thinking that your have been transported back to
pre-historic time. It can be cold, wet and foggy, which is a special part of
the appeal or fill with stunning warm sun rays. This region is surely one of
the most magnificent landscapes on the planet with barren looking gold-green
mountains, bony quartzite ridges that rise sharply from the southern ocean and
the broad landlocked waterways.
 |
treking the wilderness, the Bathurst Channel - Port Davey
 |
Port Davey
Mount Rugby, Port Davey
|
|
Tasmania
has several other accessible rivers and waterway to explore; the picturesque
Tamar, on the northern coast, with its rolling hills, hillside vineyards and
delightful surprises waiting around each bend. In the south east there is the scenic
Huon with its charming little towns and boating harbours and the mighty Derwent
which is the home of Tasmania’s capital. Both these south east rivers can be
accessed through the d’Entrecasteaux channel, another wonderful cruising
ground. And then there is the spectacular east coast which has been called “the
jewel in a crown filled with glorious wonders”.
 |
| the Tamar River |
 |
| the pipes of Cape Raoul |
 |
| the haunting Port Arthur |
 |
| the solitude of Tasman Island |
 |
| land of the exotic Albatross |
I loved the crystal clear waters of the Indian
Ocean and the Southern Ocean; the idyllic islands and the pristine long sandy
beaches with magical turquoise waters. I need to tell of places like the
Ningaloo Reef; one of the world's largest fringing reefs, stretching for
260km off Western Australia's mid north coast, the Montebello Islands, an
archipelago of around 174 small islands lying 130km off the Pilbara coast in
the north-western, World Heritage Shark Bay, another world wilderness treasure,
the Houtman Abrolhos Islands, an amazing archipelago of 122 islands
located about 70km from Geraldton, best known for the wreck of the Batavia also
having spectacular coral gardens, prolific fish life, one of the country's best
sea bird breeding colonies, as well as a haven sea lions, dolphins and
migratory whales.
 |
| anchored by the fishing huts on Pigeon Island, part of the Houtman Abrolhos Islands |
 |
| ashore watch the passing storm at Monkey Mia, Shark Bay |
 |
| waving hello - I lost count of the number of whales that appeared on the west coast |
 |
| there are many ship wrecks on the west coast - Ningaloo Reef |
 |
| a night passage past the oil and/or gas fields |
There are islands and bays in and around King George at Albany
and islands, bays with pristine beaches along the coast not far from Esperance
on the southern Austrailan shores that are a must on my list. Having said all
that, it must be mentioned that these destinations are only good to cruise/sail
for a short period of time during each area’s cruising season due to the weather
and sea conditions. I would not recommend being out as a fulltime cruiser in
these places.
 |
| coming into the port of Albany |
 |
| secluded bay and more whales |
 |
| many hills to climb - Duke of Orleans Bay |
Cruising along the Queensland coast has to be up
there with the best because of the number of easy access, safe anchorages there
are. Queensland is blessed with myriad waterways suited to cruising. Queensland
has some of the most beautiful islands in Australia. Each island is unique with
plenty of experiences and activities available.
I have always liked the Great Sandy Straits, where
I first learnt to sail a Cat. It is a sheltered waterway that provides excellent
protection from the prevailing winds in any season whether you are cruising
summer or winter. Anywhere between the Keppel and Whitsunday Islands is great
for an extended cruising period in beautiful sub-tropical weather, keeping in
mind the cyclone season. This stretch of coastline has more than its share of
fascinating estuaries and anchorages; numerous little hidey holes in rivers,
bays and islands where you find peace and tranquillity.
 |
| anchored off MacKenzies Jetty in the Great Sandy Straits |
 |
| where Soldier Crabs run wild |
 |
| the anchorage on the NW side of Great Keppel Island |
 |
| hiding out of strong weather in Island Head Creek for 10 days |
 |
| anchored at Curlew Island |
 |
| exploring the Newry Islands |
The Whitsundays are one
of the prettiest cruising grounds on the Queensland coast; there are many safe
anchorages, usually protected by reefs, so finding a safe haven for the night
is usually easy. But I feel that the Whitsundays are far overrated, even though
we keep going back there because it is easy to get too, with too many tourist
boats to contend with, making it hard to find a place of your own.
 |
| the rock cairns on Shaw Island |
 |
| hiking the hill on Lindeman Island |
 |
| I never tire of the many faces of Hill Inlet, Whitsunday Island |
 |
| and then there is always good old safe Cid Harbour |
 |
| don't you just love the transport on Hamilton Island |
 |
| how about a quiet refreshment at the Whitsunday Sailing Club? |
 |
| or a friendly game of golf on South Mole if you don't want to be doing the hill climb |
 |
| the beautiful azure sea around Cape Gloucester |
The great beauty and the striking contrast of the
remote reef and uninhabited islands of Queensland’s far north are more
attractive to me. To cruise up the Cape (Cape York) and into the Gulf of
Carpentaria you are blessed with the pristine waters that surround the reef
islands and the Inner Reef with sections up to 10kms long, twisting in shape;
some long and spindly, some expansively wide. Having protection from the open
ocean and far enough from the land to not be affected by sediment and run-off
from the rivers and creeks, offer some of the best snorkelling and/or diving in
Australia. I love the isolation of the Cape anchorages and if you are lucky, it
is where you can meet some of those special Aussie characters.
 |
| the sereneness of Hinchinbrook Channel |
 |
| lazy days on Fitzroy Island |
 |
| the coral reefs |
 |
| the small anchorage at Low Isles |
 |
| a historic place called Cooktown |
 |
| climbing the high lands on Lizard Island |
 |
| a spectacular sunrise at Morris Island, Cape York |
 |
| dodgeing the traffic lights as we sail up the Cape |
 |
| last of the small villages - Portland Roads |
 |
| now we really have to look out for the visitors |
 |
| catching a fast ride through Albany Pass - Cape York |
 |
| Cheers Matey - a cup of tea and cake at the top - Cape York |
 |
| a tour of the red dirt town - Seisia, Cape York |
The
memories of all the things that I have mentioned above will always stay imbedded
in my mind forever. How could I forget running down the front of a giant wave
or thinking I was going to freeze to death while bringing the boat around Cape
Leeuwin during my night watch?
 |
| freezing my butt off in the southern ocean |
 |
| I have a few whale tales to tell |
Memories of the red dirt and smiling faces of
the Northern Territory waters will be etched in my head forever. How does being
witness to many glorious sunsets and sunrises either while at anchor or at sea
rate?
 |
| me and my sunset - Line Reef, out from the Whitsundays |
There
are so many special place that I have seen, special moments that I have
experiences and special people that I have met that I cannot list them all. But
I can say that there has been those special people that I have met that have
taken us into their lives, shared or given a great part of themselves or what
they have with no expectation of anything in return. Some were passing
acquaintances and some have become life-long friends.
These are some of the great Aussies that we met around the block, no names, you know who you are..........
So
now I am officially “home”, and that is a very unsettling thought for me. We are
selling my beloved ALANA ROSE and moving on. I have accepted this but I will miss
my sea home and our life at sea. It is hard not to feel jealous of all the
sailors who have already gone north.
In
an attempt to squelch my melancholy I am going to think of what lies ahead in
my future; a new life, a new adventure just waiting for me....................... somewhere around the corner.
Now
there’s a good start!
